How to climb Arthur's Seat in Edinburgh

Arthur's Seat is the peak in the middle of the shot, seen from the eastern end of the city centre, close to Regent Gardens and Calton Hill before my climb.

Any guide to things to see and do in Edinburgh has climbing Arthur's Seat somewhere near the top of the list, but not many of them tell you *how* to go about doing it - at least, not in a way that a climbing layperson with zero knowledge or experience of Edinburgh's geography will understand. Enter Laura; no climbing experience, fresh off the boat train from London, and on a mission.

The ice cream van in the car park. It's at this point that you'll have to choose your route (I went left, following the red tarmac to the left of the shot). The staircase behind the van takes you to option 3 as I've described it below)

What is Arthur's Seat?

Squint really hard and you'll see little ant people at the top of the peak. Less than an hour later, I was up there.

Arthur's Seat is the peak of a hill just outside Edinburgh. It lingers in the background of photos of the city skyline, and is located close to the city centre in Holyrood, so attracts plenty of tourists wanting to give it a climb. Like much of Edinburgh, it's actually a dormant volcano, and is 822ft high - a baby compared to Everest's 29,000-odd ft, but high enough for a 5ft-nothing girl who gets puffed out climbing three flights of office stairs on a daily basis.

If I was into cliches, I'd say Arthur's Seat was my Everest. But I won't. Moving on.

Following the path, it's hard to get lost.

How do I climb Arthur's Seat?

This was the bit that stumped me. I did some research before I went to Edinburgh, and knew that in July, I'd be fine in walking shoes. But the route was a different matter. Plenty of websites and walking guides tell you which route to take, but some require you to be a more experienced climber, and none of the routes really make sense on paper - you have to be there following them. Grid references and terrain ratings were mentioned - and quickly ignored by me.

The stone steps which mark the start of the 'proper climb' in my mind

 Buoyed by the fact that I'd made it to Edinburgh and checked into my hotel alone successfully, I decided that anything was possible, so opted to figure it out as I went. What's the worst that could happen, right? I've written this guide in the hope that it'll help someone else like me - complete novice climber, no idea what those walking guides are on about or how to use a grid reference, just want a decent view, a selfie or two, and a chance to boast that I've climbed a volcano, solo.

The view from partway up those stone steps. The tarmac you see in the middle of the shot is route option 1, below.

If you're starting from Holyrood Palace, you've got three options:

1. Turn right along Queen's Drive and follow it all the way round the curve beyond the roundabout where it meets Duddingston Low Road. Just after this roundabout, a footpath veers off to the left of the road. Follow that footpath and in a couple of minutes, you'll be at the foot of where the 'proper climb' begins - just head up the stone steps in front of you, and from here, follow the path all the way to the top

Looking across a neighbouring peak towards the city centre from halfway up Arthur's Seat

2. The route I followed: Turn left along Queen's Drive, head through the car park, and (there was an ice cream van parked there in July- may not be the case if you're there in January). Walking up the first part of the slope, I was convinced the path was going to double back on itself and take me up to the people I could see above me. In fact, once I'd rounded the first corner, the path flattened out a bit, winding through a sort of meadow-valley between two ridges, Arthur's Seat overlooking it all. The paved footpath gave way to a worn grass one, heading right through the centre of the valley, on a gentle incline, all the way up to the part where the 'proper climb' begins (see above)

Windswept and sweaty, I wasn't looking my best, but I made it to the top

3. There was another route which many people from the car park were following. From that ice cream van at the bottom, a steeper path cuts right across the rock face, taking you across another hill, which you then descend before getting to the bottom of the 'proper climb' You're going up to go down to go up - sounds like hard work to me.

The view of the actual top from the nearly-top

Once you've reached the 'proper climb' bit I've mentioned above, things get serious. The route from here is a combination of stone steps - some steep, some narrow, some winding - gravel footpath and muddy track. But, importantly, it's easy to follow without getting lost. Most of it is wide enough to pass walkers in the opposite direction, but a lot of it runs alongside steep, unguarded drops so take care.

View from the top looking south down the coast

Just when you're panting so hard you've forgotten what oxygen feels like, the ground flattens out, and you'll feel like you've made it. The views here are incredible - you're practically at the top - and it's quite an achievement. Completists like me will realise that the actual peak still lingers over you. Reaching it involved what I can only describe as the rock climbing equivalent of shimmying up a drainpipe (not the technical term) in a narrow, vertical gully between two rock faces. It was a bit terrifying, but it's clearly a well-worn route with plenty of other people going about it. Once you've hauled yourself up there, you're at the peak - views, obelisks and dozens of other tourists taking photos.

The 'shimmying up a drainpipe' section

The whole thing took me about two hours, including getting up, getting down, and sitting down to eat a strawberry tart at the top (#AlwaysOnBrand with a cake in my bag - in this case, one I'd picked up in a patisserie in town in a bid to bribe myself to the top). That said, I was walking up with some gusto in typical Laura fashion,  I had so much I wanted to see and do in my limited time in Edinburgh that I didn't want to miss anything. A more gentle incline would take a while longer.

The very peak

Other tips for climbing Arthur's Seat:

• Dress appropriately, obvs. This is no flip flops and summer dress situation. In July, I wore comfy long shorts, a t-shirt and walking shoes. No need for super-technical walking boots or hiking poles or any of that nonsense.

Selfies galore at the top

• It gets extremely windy up at the top. If you're anything like me, you'll be sweating by the time you reach the summit (again - this was a balmy July afternoon) so it won't necessarily be cold but loose items will blow away. Even taking photos was tricky, as my phone kept getting blown straight into my face.

You're damn right I carried a cake all the way up there, and you're damn right I sat and ate it at the top.

• 
  Pick your time of year. I hear they're partial to a snowflake or two in Scotland in winter, which is not conducive to climbing a volcano.
• Take a camera/phone and don't wait until the top to take photos - all the way up the route, there are some great photo opportunities as the minutae of Edinburgh fades into the background and the coast, the Forth Bridge and beyond dominate the view.
• Enjoy it. I was so proud of myself - I'd climbed a volcano, solo! - that the endorphins carried me for days.

On my way back down, I passed a school trip going up

If you're looking for a budget hotel in Edinburgh, check out my review of Hub by Premier Inn.

In photos: Virginia Water in autumn

At the weekend, I went to Virginia Water, a large lake and country park on the Surrey-Berkshire border to meet a friend (and her dog). We had lovely weather, considering it's October - beautiful sun and cloudless blue skies, which set the autumn hues and fiery leaves off beautifully. Naturally, I took my camera, and wanted to share a few shots I took between throwing sticks into the lake for the furry one to retrieve.

The Home Counties' answer to the Loch Ness Monster? Nah, just Barney the Cockapoo

The swans' necks were forming a perfect heart. Of course, they moved just as I hit the shutter.

All the colours of the rainbow

This waterfall reminded me of being in the Lake District this time last year.

That feeling when you want to keep playing, but the water's so damn cold

No idea whose dog this is, but he's pretty photogenic, huh?

Serious thinking face 

Hub by Premier Inn at Edinburgh Haymarket: hotel review

I'll admit, inner city Premier Inns aren't usually the fodder of travel blogs, their writers usually tending more towards the boutique hotel end of the market (a girl can dream, hey?), but I'm sharing my recent* experience of the Hub by Premier Inn at Edinburgh Haymarket because a) it's something I genuinely think is good and more people should know about, and b) I wish a blog post like this had been out there for me to read before I booked.

(*I say 'recent' -  I stayed there in late July and I'm writing this in October. C'est la vie).

Not a bad view from my room

First of all - meet Hub by Premier Inn. It's a new spin-off hotel chain by Premier Inn, located in city centres and aimed more at budget travellers and those for whom a large room is not a priority. The rooms are notably compact, but the low cost and central location are the benefits.

I was vaguely aware of Hub by Premier Inn when I booked my long-planned solo trip to Edinburgh. A friend who stays in London on a regular basis had recommended the Liverpool Street one, and while I didn't set out to book this particular hotel, it was one of the cheaper options available for my travel dates that didn't look like a complete dive, so I booked myself in.

I had a couple of minor concerns before my stay - at such a low cost, I worried that corners would be cut, specifically, whether bath towels and a hairdryer would be provided in the room. I intended to ring and check before my trip, but never got round to it. No need to worry - both were provided.

The chair, with the desk that pulls out

A couple of days before my arrival, I was sent an email allowing me to check in online. The process was very simple, but would probably be even more handy for international visitors who can provide their passport details in advance, saving time when they physically arrive at the hotel. I then received a text message from the hotel as I whizzed through northern England on a train en-route to Edinburgh, providing me with a reference number. I was a bit nervous about the arrival, as I'd read elsewhere that the check-in is on automated machines, rather than a manned reception desk. Technology and I don't have a great track record, and I had visions of not being able to access my room and being forced to sleep on Edinburgh's streets. Again, my fears were unfounded. Three touch screen check-in machines were waiting for me in the hotel reception, but so too was a friendly member of staff who was only too happy to help.

Under-bed storage

It took just a couple of minutes before I had my keycard in hand and directions to my fourth floor room. Both the hallway where the lift is located and the lift itself require keycard access meaning only guests of the hotel can get in - something of a reassurance as a lone female traveller.

The room itself was a lot sleeker than I expected. The cabin-style double bed was very comfy, although having two people sharing may cause problems, as one would have to climb over the other to get out. Storage comes in the form of a hidey hole under the bed, and a small clothes rail, big enough to hang five or so items. A chair sits next to the floor-ceiling window, and the shelf at the end of the bed extends out to create a writing desk - a bonus I didn't expect for the price.

The bathroom is petite but more than adequate, with a choice of two showers in the glass cubicle - a removable, hosepipe shower head or a fixed, large shower head. Both are very powerful but you can't have both running at the same time - believe me, I tried. Again, if you were travelling in a pair, privacy may be an issue, as the windows and door of the bathroom are (partially frosted) glass.

The wardrobe

Technology is king in the rooms themselves too. The heating, air con and lights are all controlled by a touch panel by the head of the bed, as is the do not disturb sign - simply press a button by the bed and a light goes on outside your door. The entertainment choice is impressive too - as well as regular TV channels, the flatscreen offers a decent choice of on-demand films and TV shows. After a full day exploring every day, it was rather luxurious to come back to a soft bed and on-demand films to watch while my feet recovered from all the walking.

Downstairs in the hotel, there's a bar and restaurant open all day, and a tea and coffee table which guests can help themselves to free of charge at any time, plus plenty of water available. Being out and about all day every day, I didn't get a chance to try the restaurant or bar (plus, I would have felt like a bit of a lemon sitting here alone). That said, there was a friendly atmosphere every time I walked through, so if you were a lone traveller looking to meet people, you wouldn't have too much of a problem.

Handy map of Edinburgh on the wall

Location-wise, the hotel is spot on. It's just a five minute walk from the western end of Princes Street, one of Edinburgh's main tourist roads. The castle is a 15 minute walk away, and Edinburgh Haymarket station is 5 minutes out of town, while Waverley is a 15-20 walk back into town. Once I stepped off my train from London, I didn't need to use any other public transport until I was heading back to London three days later.

In short, if you're looking for a budget hotel, particularly for a city break, where you don't need that much space and will be out of the room most of the day, I can't recommend Hub by Premier Inn highly enough. The rooms are very comfortable, helped along by soft beds, adjustable heating/air con, and lovely powerful showers. Location is excellent for sightseeing, and the TV entertainment system has plenty to keep you busy if you're staying in the hotel - and all for a really great price. If you're travelling in a couple, I'd think carefully about the layout of the bed and that glass bathroom before booking.

The bathroom

Hub by Premier Inn Edinburgh Haymarket. I stayed 28-31 July 2018 and paid £135.50 for a three night stay. At time of writing, there are 10 Hub by Premier Inn hotels dotted across London and Edinburgh, but I'm really hoping they open more in other UK cities soon - it would certainly help me continue visiting a new place every month into 2019.

Disclaimer: I paid for the stay myself, and Hub by Premier Inn had no idea I would be writing this blog post - it is no way affiliated with the company.

A weekend in Leeds, part 2

Catch up on my first day in Leeds.

After a busy day of walking, picnicking and hunting out secret bars, we began my second day in Leeds by... heading out for more food. My Leeds-based friend had offered several suggestions for somewhere to get breakfast, but as soon as she mentioned that one of them serves coffee from a lifesize VW Camper Van, I was sold.

Archie's is situated in the train arches right under Leeds station. Unlike London's much-lamented Archie's, it offers more than just cheese, including a cracking full English which set me up for the day splendidly.

Handily, the Leeds waterbus stop is almost right outside, leaving us not far too waddle. Part James Bond speedboat, part yellow New York taxi, the waterbus was set up to offer free rides to Leeds Docks, to encourage more people to visit the area.

You can see why. There's not much going on in the Docks - it's mainly luxury flats overlooking the water. The main attraction is Armouries, a free museum about war and armour from all over the world. Despite its historic subject matter, it's a thoroughly modern building, its light and airy nature making it feel more like an art gallery than a museum.

 You could spend hours there if you were so inclined but we had exploring to do, so we left the museum, and wandered back towards the town centre where, I discovered, Leeds has a wealth of street art.

We passed the rest of the afternoon wandering through the many grand arcades of Leeds, both the ornate, older ones and the sleek, modern ones. The Corn Exchange, now used as an indoor shopping centre full of interesting indy shops, is a stunning building, and worth popping into if you need to escape the rain. Unfortunately its vast ceiling makes it difficult to snap a decent picture, so you'll have to make do with this shot of another arcade instead.




I have to admit, I'd misjudged Leeds. I've always thought of it as a dull, metropolitan city, with plenty of shops, bars and restaurants, and not a lot else. In reality, I saw plenty of historical, architectural and cultural features that tell its story. More on that in a future blog post, but my camera was kept extremely busy.

Oh, yeah. Didn't think I'd finish the day without cake did you? Our final pitstop was a tea and cake break at Mrs Atha's Coffee House. It's not a huge place, the basement area crammed to bursting with eclectically mismatched tables and chairs, but it's cosy, and ideal for seeing out the rain.

My trip to Leeds was part of my mission to visit a new UK place every month this year. I'm documenting the mission on Twitter and Instagram. I'm open to suggestions - where else should I go?

A weekend in Leeds, part 1: Abbeys, tea rooms and Monkey Fingers

As part of my plan to visit a new place every month this year, I went to visit a uni friend who lives in Leeds. That's cheating a bit as I've been to Leeds before, but only for daytrips when I lived in York, mainly zeroing in on Primark and the Christmas market, student priorities being what they were. Needless to say, I didn't see much of the cultural side of the city, so staying with someone who's lived in Leeds for three years was a handy way of being guided to lesser-known spots.

Flashbacks to studying Tintern Abbey in sixth form

A large part of my weekend in Leeds wasn't actually spent in Leeds. As soon as I stepped off the train, we headed about an hour north to Fountains Abbey, a National Trust property out in the wilds of Yorkshire. The Abbey itself is a ruin, but a substantial one, and it's on the same site as Studley Royal Water Garden, meaning plenty of ornamental lakes to wander among while we had a long overdue catch up (and a picnic of course, including Hummingbird Bakery cupcakes which I'd lovingly transported all the way from London).

From here, we darted through the back roads and country lanes over to Harrogate, somewhere I've never been before but always fancied visiting. Does this mean I can count this as two new places visited this weekend? I hope so, as I've got some making up to do for February and March.

Harrogate town centre

By the time we'd taken a convoluted trip around Harrogate's one way system and found somewhere to park, the sun was shining and the flowers were in full bloom. Like all self-respecting tourists, we started out tour of the town at Betty's Tea Rooms, opting for a quick peek in the shop rather than queuing for food.

After an hour or so of wandering the streets of Harrogate, and a cheeky milkshake to lift our flagging sugar levels, it was back in the car to Leeds.

Dinner came courtesy of Meat Liquor, sister restaurant of my beloved Meat Mission, where I finally got round to trying the Monkey Fingers - strips of chicken covered in that moreish buffalo sauce. They were decent, but not as crispy as my usual buffalo chicken burger.

I'm the sort of person who firmly believes - to adapt a line from How I Met Your Mother - that nothing good happens after 9pm (except sleep). In this case, Leeds proved me wrong. We found ourselves in a secret jazz bar hidden underneath what looks like a barber shop in one of the city's fancy arcades. As well as feeling clandestine, and quite classy, it also provided me with the cheapest round I ever bought. Between you and me, it's this place... but don't go telling everyone.

I'll be publishing part 2 of the Leeds Chronicles shortly. In the mean time, keep up with my antics on Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook.